She did it First

"Versace without Versace" has become the hot topic of the industry, sparking discussions in the media.

While much attention has been given to the iconic legacy left behind by the Versace siblings— from the Jungle Dress, worn by Amber Valletta and Jennifer Lopez, which led to the creation of Google Images, to the innovative use of materials that redefined luxury—the brand's influence on fashion goes far beyond its history. One moment in particular, stands out —one that shaped the industry as we know it today.

To understand the impact the moment had, one must look back in the 90s: when Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, and Christy Turlington graced the runway as Freedom! '90 by George Michael played in the background—a fundamental moment, that transformed the models into cultural icons, reshaping modelling and redefining beauty on a global scale. 20 years later, once again, as the spotlight revealed their familiar faces, a wave of nostalgia swept over the audience, doing exactly that.  Marking the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s passing, the Spring/Summer 2018 runway finale was nothing short of a grand masterpiece. As the lights dimmed, five unmistakable figures emerged behind the curtain, shimmering in their sequin gowns. And the public could not help itself than wonder: “is it truly them?”

Helena Christensen, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, and Carla Bruni walked the runway as if time itself had paused. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0iLg-fgNbE&t=933)

The "retired” supermodel, returned to the runway after years, presented just as grand as in the past—dressed in the same signature gown in full glamour. And the more effective aspect of the finale presentation of the Versace show? The supermodel is seen once again among others. Rather than appearing as an isolated figure weakened by time, they stood together, empowered as a group, fighting against the barriers of the industry.

Possibly, the marketing strategy behind these moment was to create awe in the audience—a cultural milestone in fashion at a time when it desperately needed a shake-up. What happened, however, was even more brilliant than just a strategy—it was the redefinition of beauty standards.

The unexpected reunion, created the striking surprise effect, which can be perfectly explained through the Cognitive Dissonance Theory—challenging the long-held belief that youth is the only standard for runway relevance.

Based on this theory, when people hold two conflicting beliefs, they experience psychological discomfort (Pilat & Krastev).In this case, the fashion industry had long conditioned the public to believe that youth was the sole standard of beauty. Yet, here were these “retired” supermodels, reclaiming the runway with the same power and allure they once had. To resolve this conflict, the audience’s perception had to shift—the idea that beauty is exclusive to youth was suddenly exposed as false (Koblin et al., 2023).

The overwhelming response to the return of the supermodels wasn’t just due to the suprising factor however. The effect can also be explained by the Mere Exposure Effect, a psychological principle stating that people develop a preference for things simply because they are familiar with them (Pilat & Krastev).

  And therefore, again and again, the house was graced by legendary names of its past—women whose presence transcends fashion, reaching an almost mythical, goddess-like status.  Stephanie Seymour, Kate Moss, Amber Valletta, Hana Soukupová, and Shalom Harlow have all made their return to the runway. More than a tribute to the past, these moments reaffirmed the brand’s influence in shaping the supermodel phenomenon, where models were not just mannequins but powerful branding figures capable of shaping the general public perception. The impact this fundamental moment had on the industry is marvellous. Forcing the significant increase in models over 30 on the runway and in campaigns of all fashion houses in recent years. One of the most striking examples?  The return of Tyra Banks for the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. The return of Linda Evangelista for the Fendi show. The return of Gisele for British Vogue.

But just as I remembered the moment the curtain droped and the supers revealed themselves through the darkness. I could not stop thinking: Where are the supermodels in Donatella Versace’s last fashion show?

The absence of ’90s and ’00s icons—Natasha Poly, Mariacarla Boscono—and even her current muses, the Hadid sisters, Vittoria Ceretti, Anok Yai, and Irina Shayk, was undeniable. The runway was missing the very models she had worked with for years. But why? The final show of a designer should be as marvellous as their legacy.

The answer was simple: respect for the next generation. Donatella did not present her last show as the ending of the Versace brand, but rather chose to pass the baton, allowing Dario Vitale’s first show to take centre stage and giving the new wave of models the same opportunity to reach the supermodel status alike those in the past.

This, for me, is the reason I love the essence of Donatella Versace and the Versace brand: embracing individuals for who they truly are.

-a

Sources

Koblin, J. (2022, October 20). Cognitive dissonance: Our battle with conflicting beliefs. Retrieved from [insert URL here]https://sproutsschools.com/cognitive-dissonance-our-battle-with-conflicting-beliefs/

Nickerson, C. (2023, October 10). Mere Exposure Effect in Psychology: Biases & Heuristics. Retrieved from https://www.psychologytoday.com

Pilat, M., & Krastev, A. (n.d.). Why do we prefer things that we are familiar with? The Mere Exposure Effect explained.Retrieved from https://thedecisionlab.com/biases/mere-exposure-effect

Pilat, M., & Krastev, A. (n.d.). Why is it so hard to change someone's beliefs? Cognitive dissonance, explained. Retrieved from https://thedecisionlab.com/biases/cognitive-dissonance